We spent a day and resting eating. We had a quiet night. The late anchor watch was magnifiscent, under the incredible starry, but also clouded, night. And the moais on the beach looming in the feeble, changing moon light.
The next day we started exploring the beach's immediate surroundings. We had the probabely best chickenwings of the world, at Glady's little food and beverage stand. Anakena is one of the islands preferred turist destinations. It's Moais were the first to be reerrected by Thor Hayerdal, on his expedition with a Norwegian ship.
In the afternoon, the replacement crew arrived. Laura, Katie and Mike. Now it was Etzke's and my turn to see the island. The captain brought us to land. We had luggage, since we needed to wash clothes. On shore we met a small party of locals. They were frying freshly cought fish, had plenty, and invited us to join. The grilled, fresh fish with the cold beer and friendly people, looking over Anakena Beach in the afternoon, that was something to remember.
It turned out they were celebrating. Their family story had an interesting link with Hayerdahl's expedition. A curious family re-reunion. I met Jackeline, who was the mother of 3 children, and teacher of traditional Rapa Nui language in Hanga Roa school. We all had time to tell a little of our stories. Of course they were curious about us, as they had seen our landing with the dingi. After a couple of beers, in the late afternoon, we left. The family gave Etzke and me a ride to Hanga Roa on the back of their pickup truck.
They invided us to a last cup of tea, at home. After a short and cheerfull chat, in spanish, we agreed to visit the island together. They were making a tour for Carl, the Norwegian, and his doughter. We were invited to join the tour on the pickup truck. I was acting as some sort of translator between the spanish speaking Rapa Nuis and the english speaking Carl, and was facilitating conversations. I was therfore constantely talking to someone. After weeks of limited interaction I was enjoying it.
Happy, we excused ourselves ,and left to search for a place to stay. A posada, looking over Hanga Roa harbour, was cheep and adequate. They had a hot shower. That was the main prerequisite. We had lived weeks "washing" with one cup of sweet water per day... :-/ You get used to it after a while, I an assure you. As you get used to many things worse. Therefore a shower was now called for - urgently!
As night fell, the wind changed. Again, I was worried. Next morning, before we left to the tour, I went to the Coastguard to ask for news about the boat. They had gotten news per radio. Columbia had a critical situation during the night. They made for the sea at daybrake, and were heaving-to. Everything was ok. The on-shore crew should proceed, as planned, with the visit to the Island.
sábado, 15 de março de 2008
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