Mostrando postagens com marcador South East Pacific Tour. Mostrar todas as postagens
Mostrando postagens com marcador South East Pacific Tour. Mostrar todas as postagens

quarta-feira, 26 de maio de 2010

Sordid details

During my SouthEast Pacific trip, I had opportunity to live through the most various types of new experiences. In my opinion, obviously, it is these sort of experiences that add the spice to one's life. And therefore, in that sense alone, the travel and all its hardships, were outrageously worthwhile.

Interestingly, some things that seem hideous to some, went past me without much fuss. Take the dress code and washing habits.

As we sailed into the Roaring Forties, which is past the 40-iest, Southern degree of latitude, winds are usually above 25 knots, and the great ocean rollers, often with a swell higher than 4-5 meters, speed past interminabely. After a while, one only really takes notice of them when they grow to 6-7 meters. Temperature can get over an agreable 15 degrees Celsius, in the sunshine. But mostly it's overcast, with temperatures around 10 degrees. Nights were chilly, often being cold, around 5 degrees, making our 3 hour night-watches into a sometimes freezing experience.

Being an bloody amateur in oceanic crossings, my garment was not very well sorted, in my opinion. However, I had the great advantage of having a proper sailing foulweather gear, with waterproof pants and a jacket with a sailors' collar and hood. It was a gift, given to me by my mother, many years ago. Here is one well used gift!
Else, I would allways use; Two pairs of socks, underwear, a pair of cotton training pants, two cotton T-shirts, one cotton or sythetic fiber long-sleeve shirt, a fleece-pullover, a pair of neoprene sailing boots with a proper sole, and my light foulweather gear. The boots were also a well remembered item, lended to me by my brother. He later gifted them to me, and I still have them. Never use them on the boat-building site, though.

During all times while on deck we would carry our harness with teether locked onto something. At night-watches, I would allways carry on me; a waterproof flashlight, and a pocket knife. After a while, I also learned to allways carry on me a pair of cotton working-gloves. The cheap stuff. I've bought them for R$ 5. They saved me many a cold night. And after 2 weeks of use, they get really soft too, if you try to keep them as dry from salt water as possible. If you observe the image in my last post, you'll note, that I also had a woolen cap. I still love it.

I'm afraid I have to say, that my crewmates were not as well equiped as I was. Most of them had barely ever sailed before, and knew not what expected them. Mike, the Canadian, had a outdated yellow oilskin jacket, and synethic windcover pants. Sometimes I offered him my jacket. He rarely took it. Though Canadian!

Daily hygiene was resolved with a rigurously controlled dosis of one cup of sweet water per person. I was surprised to see how well I coped with that one! No kidding. I mean, that I used it very efficiently. I held a very rigorous hygiene routine and had, therefore, no skin or other health problems.

On the other hand, you could serve yourself from as much salt water as you whished for. Eventhough, I tryied to keep far from it. The temperature was not tempting and the salt would cause discomfort on the skin in the long run. When working on deck my weather gear sheltered me from the water. Another reason for the absence of skin issues during the trip.

My experience as a skier and snowboarder was valuable. This included garment preparation, and operational dressing techniques; like using in layers, undressing as soon as possible, and peeling off when working and sweating. But also, the experience of being cold for a few hours.

We had a routine of rolling watches. Each crew member would be on watch for 2 hours during days and 3 during nights, the captain was not included ,and we allways had one free crew member. My preferred watch was in the early morning hours and day-break.

Standing a night watch, alone under an endless stary night, chilling in the endless vastness of the Southern Ocean, is one of my most memorable memories. I will never forget how that feels.

domingo, 14 de setembro de 2008

Stormy passage

The most memorable moment of the South East Pacific Tour was during the 3 day storm with winds of 35-40 knots, gusting up to 55 knots.

The grandious display of nature was mesmerizing. Despite feeling cold and exhausted by the physical strain, my mind was clear and alert, though. Watching the wind screaming over the huge vastness and through the rig. The sea; white, overriders breaking over the crests of the huge pacific rollers. Endless wave trains. Mountains of water, estimated at 8 to 10 meters, rolling behemothly, in regular and powerfull motion across the globe. These were prime times.

Strangely I felt no fear. The biggest danger was loosing the rig, and getting pooped. Being pooped was a great worry. Columbia being the heavy ship that she was, pooping might have sunk her in a matter of seconds. We had several overriders crashing into the cockpit. And no need to say that loosing the rig in these isolated waters is catastrophic too. Which is why we had reason to worry. In one of the last stronger gusts one of our lower shrouds broke...

Yet, strangely, I felt no fear.

quinta-feira, 19 de junho de 2008

Bitter Ending - SEPTour


Columbia - Finally with a rope tied to land again

The South East Pacific Tour came to a bitter ending.

Since my refusal to take the Yachtmaster Exam, the Captain of Columbia ignored me completely, and took me out of the ship's routine. I didn't want to worsen things in the last couple of hours, so I didn't object. Nor did I care much. It was sad enough for me to have the Pacific cruise end this way. But, I had to choose my side, and I did. And I didn't regret my choice.

I guess I took the best of the experience with me. I got to see phantastic places. I got a taste of the great Southern Ocean and saw the Albatross fly - and rest, in the calm. I met interesting people, and got in touch with different cultures. I've learned a lot. Even if by seeing bad examples. But also from the captain I've learned some things; navigation, meteorology, maintenance.

But foremost; I got to learn a lot of things about myself. I travelled thousands of miles over the Ocean. But the voyage inside my own self was much greater than that. I know now what I can take, the sort of emotional strain I can endure - and sort I can't take too well. Well; let's say I know a whole lot more about it than I knew before...

The land approach was a phantastic experience. Seeing the green mountain slopes of Chile after weeks on the Ocean... priceless! We tackled the entrance through a wide, fjordlike river mouth, to Puerto Valdivia, a small coastal town on the entrance to the Patagonian land, without problems. Despite the approaching steak and beers, the crew was not cheerfull. The last episodes had taken their toll.

We tied the boat on a jetty int he local club, and arranged things in no time. And without much fuss and cerimony, after concluding the formalities, the crew left the boat. We all (the crew, minus the captain) went together into the next backpacker hostel for a long hot shower. And then, quickly, into the next restaurant for a big steak and a couple of beers. Ah! Humans and their simple pleasures!

domingo, 15 de junho de 2008

South East Pacific Tour - Land approach

After weeks of slow sailing in a weak wind pattern, with only occasional gales (after all, we were in the “roaring’ 40ies) and discharge of thunderstorms, our morale was down, and all rations, food and water, were reduced. We were still about 400 miles from land. Our estimated time of arrival in Chile, had already passed. With our average speed over the whole voyage, about 50 miles a day, we would still be 8 days from port. But currently we were sitting in a dead calm and were averaging much less than that…

The Chilean Coast Guard keeps track of all vessels crossing from Easter Island to the continent, since this is a relatively dangerous passage through a largely empty Ocean. Once your estimated time of arrival has passed, your vessel is considered overdue. At this stage all ships are asked to keep a lookout, and report all sightings that could relate to the overdue vessel. Well, … by now we were on that list.

Under pressure of the crew the captain had finally started the engine. But then, after 2 hours of motoring at 4 knots, the engine was stopped by the captain… nobody understood. Flat sea, full tank, good for more than 800 miles, 400 miles to go… motoring out of the wind hole to find better wind closer to the Humbold current was the tactic which was apparently chosen. In the end of the day the crew had booked an instruction cruise on an academy boat, to get the certification as Yachtmaster Offshore. A survival course was not on the program. All crew had lost significant weight. I had lost about 5 kg already. In my case that was very significant and substantial since I have barely any body fat. Understandably, the crew was puzzled. Why start the engine, and stop it after only 2 hours? The progess we made, 8 miles, changed nothing in our situation.

The girls reacted strongly. They loudly questioned the captain. My own position with the captain was deteriorating rapidly, but for the while I kept my thoughts and feelings to myself, and was inclined to listen first. Facing the reaction of the crew, the captain began to complain about the starting “mutiny”. I was by no means willing to participate in anything that could look like it, because I understand the consequences of this, and mainly because I was still interested in the Yachtmaster certification – one of the main reasons for me still being on the boat.

The captain called all crew in the cockpit. He wanted to put a few things straight. With long winded words he explained that he was the captain, and the only one deciding were and how this ship would go. The crew had to understand that this was part of the training, that the crew knew nothing boats, engines and life in general… My forehead started wrinkling… He continued explaining us a few things about diesel engines; Diesel engines were not build to run for long hours. I was puzzled. Before leaving Equador he told us that the engine was a power aggregate, also used in small power plants. So, they were not built to run for long hours? For what I know, diesel engines run as long as they have diesel in their tanks! The bullshit was stinking badly! And I was starting to show my dissatisfaction in front of all this complete bullshit.

I was here on this boat, paying to be instructed. Not to get this type of nonsense, to be treated like an idiot. My motivation to have a Yachtmaster certificate signed by this man was falling rapidly. Like a stone, actually.

The next day the engine was started again. We motored during 4 hours. The same on the next day. Finally the wind kicked in again. We were finally able to approach land. The mood was terrible. During all that time I was pondering about my next steps. The whole episode had put me into an ethical dilemma. Confronted with what I considered a more than unacceptable behavior of the captain, I decided not to give him my support any more, and just continue doing my watches and duties as usual.

Yachtmaster Offshore Exam

The Yachtmaster Exam was scheduled to take place during the last 2 days of our land approach. First the practical part, and on the last day the theoretical part. The couple of days before that, I was miserable. I had two reasons for this trip. One was to make an extended Ocean Voyage, the second was to get the Yachtmaster Offshore certificate. I got the voyage, all right. The second was more difficult now. Not that I feared the exam. It was more of an ethical problem.

I had put up with a lot of bullshit and had stayed quiet a couple of times during this trip, in order not to risk my exam. The captain was, after all, the captain, the instructor, the examiner, all in one person. Not good. But the whole thing was getting a little too much for me to just put up with it now. Doing the exam meant, for me, to silently accept all the behavior of the captain, and worse, to accept his authority to give me a Yachtmaster Offshore Certificate. And deep in my heart I knew that I didn’t. And there was no one I could talk to about that.

I went into a silent isolation. I felt very sad. Besides being quite angry. But, foremost, I was very lonely.

After long pondering I decided not to take the exam. To give up on one of my main objectives for the whole trip. It was a difficult decision. But, in the end I didn’t want it any more. I mean; I didn’t want a certificate with his name and signature on it. It would be a lifelong shame for me - and not a reason for pride, which it was meant to be. In order not to threaten the chances of the rest of the crew, I decided to tell the captain only in the last moment, when it was my time to take the theoretical exam. I therefore asked to be the last to take the test.

Sad arrival

My exam was the last, in the afternoon. The following morning would be landfall. I entered the captain’s cabin at the stern. He began with an introduction, giving me some moral teachings, telling me that I was a good crew, but that it seemed that I had to choose on which side I was. That was my signal. I told him I had already chosen my side, and that I was not taking his exam. He went silent. I took the opportunity to tell him my view on the story. Listed him all my reasons for my decision, and remembered a couple of his bad decisions. But, most importantly, I told him that I didn’t accept his authority to certify me. He said nothing and I left.

Despite being exam day, it seemed that nobody felt like celebrating.

The captain of Columbia

sexta-feira, 18 de abril de 2008

Too calm - South East Pacific Tour

Big Marlin following in the wake of S/V Columbia in mid-Pacific Ocean

As the calm persisted, the crew on Columbia became stressed and nervous. We progressed for days with average speeds of 0,5 to 1,5 knots, in very feeble winds. We still had 500 miles to go to the South American coast. The visit to the Juan Fernandez Islands was canceled. The wind pattern was one of consistently weak winds, over a long period of time, in an El Niño year.

It was obvious that the now substantial barnacle growth was threatening our very safety. Water and food was rationed.

I silently started to draw different scenarios and options, considering progress compared to the amount of water and food that we still had on board. And considering crew morale too, which was low. Very low. Non of the scenarios was too positive.

As the most experienced crew member I had been put in a trust position by the captain, from the very beginning of the trip. It was a difficult situation, since I found myself trying to defend the erratic behavior of the captain in front of the crew. In the eyes of the crew I was on “his side”.

Many of the crew did not understand the need of discipline and hierarchy on such a trip. I therefore, as "first mate", saw it as my duty to defend the captains decisions. Despite finding it sometimes difficult, due to his bad technical and personal decisions. Crew mutiny was definitely not an option for me. And, believe it or not, some crew members expressed ideas in this direction! Not once and not twice... It was getting serious... I newer thought I would find myself in such a situation. I was in a dilemma.

The situation was exacerbated, since the captain didn't draw scenarios, did not point options, solutions, or tried to comfort the crew in any way.

We had an operational engine and a full tank, with autonomy for 800 miles.
Under the current average speeds we wound not reach land with our food and water supply, even rationed. Of course we could ration further, but already the crew was weakened. I had lost considerable weight. We had a flat sea.

I decided that it was time to start making some questions to the captain. Despite my very careful approach, he reacted most violently. He was obviously already aware of the mutinous atmosphere - there was no way to miss it. And apparently he thought that I, until then his most reliable crew member, was going the same way! But I had to get some answers, and urged him to talk to the crew, alerted him of the critical situation, and asked him to tell us what his options were.

Our relationship deteriorated. But, under pressure, he decided to take some decisions. He decided it was now time to dive, and clean the bottom of the boat. In the current situation, in mid ocean, high latitudes, this was, of course a very dangerous undertaking. We had seen many big fish, following in our wake over long periods of time. Sharks mostly… they seemed to enjoy to stay in the shadow of the boat. As did big tunas, dorados, and even a big marlin. It is the one seen on the picture above. It must have measured at least 3,5 meters length. It’s eye was the size of my fist.

So, a war operations was set up, with lookouts, wetsuits (water temperature was at 12 Degrees Celsius! We were still in the roaring forties…), tools, safety lines, tie-ups, hot beverages and emergency plans. This time I stayed on board.

After hours of hard work we freed the vessel of the thick cover of long-necked barnacles. Something we should have done long ago! They girls sighted in relief… they were the ones which were most affected by the critical situation. One of them silently, and only half ironically, suggested to me we should leave the captain in the water…

Of course the boat should have had a clean bottom from the start, which it didn’t. Galapagos and then Easter Island would have been other possibilities for cleaning. We knew about the problems with the barnacles.

At least now we were free, and the activity increased crew morale. But still, there was no wind. Reluctantly but motivated, pressed, by the crew, the captain decided to start the engine. Finally! The crew cheered!

quinta-feira, 10 de abril de 2008

Flat Calm on the South East Pacific


The gale which brought us winds of 40kts, gusting up to 55kts lasted three days. On the second day the lower st'board shroud broke. We had to tack the boat to release the pressure on the mast.

When the wind abated, we set to make our repairs. Luckily the boat was well equipped with spares and tools, and so we managed to make full repairs. After 6 days hanging-on, due to the gale and then due to the broken shroud, we set the boat sailing again.

To our despair the wind was getting weaker every day. And soon enough it died off completely, leaving us totally becalmed. The Pacific turned into a placid pond. Even the South Pacific rollers subsided. I had never seen so calm a sea. It reminded me of the absolutely flat waters of the Rio Negro. We had albatrosses sitting around us, waiting for breeze. All they did was keep starring at us, strange visitors.

It was now that the neglect of our underwater body was charging its toll. The voyage was already taking much longer than planned. Our average speed over the voyage was 3 kts! Water and food rations were low. We decided to ration. Crew morale was at a low point.

Instead of calming the crew and communicationg about our options the captain escaped his responsibility. He increased his psychologic pressure on the crewmembers.

domingo, 30 de março de 2008

Gale force

Extrato do Diário pessoal

Ocean Pacífico
Posição: 40.54'S / 090.45'W

Data: 24/12/2003

Acordamos com o vento forte bombando. A frente fria que esperávamos finalmente entrou com força. Ventos de 30-35 nós fazem a velejada ficar interessante. Durante a tarde apareceram CB's que descarregam vento e chuva com força extraordinária. Em minha vigília da tarde um CB decarrega rajadas acima de 55 nós. É incrível! Tirei algumas fotos durante a tempestade, mas duvído que representem bem a força descomunal dos elementos. É para ver e experimentar isto que vim até aqui. Ao menos volto para casa satisfeito com isto. Nestas circunstâncias a solidez e o peso do barco se tornam positivos porque nos sentimos seguros, e a vida na cabine prossegue normalmente.

Durante a vigília porém o frio pelo vento e a água é forte. Vários overriders nos encharcam regularmente e por vezes enchem o cockpit. Uma preocupação é manter o barco sempre fechado, pois se um overrider encher o cockpit e esvaziar para dentro do barco, podemos afundar em poucos minutos.

No final do dia percebo um shroud quebrado à barlavento. Com o tempo o arame vai se desfazendo e temos que fazer um gibe para retirar a pressão deste lado do mastro.

Agora vamos direto para Norte e Oeste! Estamos voltando. Fico com a moral arrasada.

Gale for Christmas

From the Ship's Log Boook:

Wednesday, 24th. December 2003 - 26th. day on sea
Passage from Easter Island to Chile

Position 40.54'S / 090.45'W
Log: 1527nm
Wind: S/30-35kts
Sea Temp: 13deg.

All day: near gale - gale force winds. Seas troughing to 8m, several overriders
12:00: Line squalls produce winds >50 kts
20:00 During deck check, lower fore st'bd shroud damage identified. Genoa taken in + main opened to relieve pressure on shroud.
Main #3
Genoa 1/5
Jib



Sailing into the Roaring Forties - SEPT

As we left Easter Island, we set a course almost true south. One needs to venture into the high southern latitudes to reach the favorable West winds, that take one back to the South American continent.

As latitude increases, the temperature drops and the wind gets denser. Cold air is heavier than warm air, and that makes a huge difference when sailing. Reefing for the night became a routine. Temperatures during night-watches would drop to about 5 Degrees C..

We rigged the staysail and used only a small part on the genoa on the roller furler. Despite the overall weak wind pattern due to El Ninho, we now encountered cold winds of around 30 knots with certain regularity.

It was awsome to see the Great Pacific Rollers comming in. Big massive wavetrains, which would reach 5-6 meters were common. We did meet higher waves than this too, though.

We spent long time on deck studying the clouds waves, barometer. Temperatures of air and water were consulted. We did not dispose of modern, sophisticated equipment for weather forecast, weatehrfax, internet or such. Therefore we relied on observing and recording. Routing Maps gave us statistical storm figures, which proved accurate. I had great pleasure learning all these things. I was still waiting for a real storm though.

One needs to be careful with what one whishes - It may become real.

sexta-feira, 21 de março de 2008

Into the Roaring Forties

Into the Roaring Forties!

Pascua - Easter Island departure

Goose Neck Barnacle

I decided to continue with the voyage on the last leg, that should take us to Isla Juan Fernandes and back to Chile. I was looking forward to Juan Fernandes, which is another remote island, which only receives a small amount of visitors. The island is mainly known for having been the home to the sailor Alexander Selkirk for four years, which later inspired the novel Robinson Crusoe. The islands lie about 350 miles form the Chilean Coast.

My stay on the island had been phantastic. I had met great people, learned many interesting stories and tales, had adventures and lots of fun. It was an experience I wouldn't want to miss, depite all hardships.

So, I joined the crew on the day of departure. The Captain finally communicated us that Laura, the Canadian girl, would not continue with us. He gave us a long speach, saying that Laura had broken his confidence, that she was not reliable etc.. Despite not being a surprise, the crew had mixed feelings towards the news. Laura had shown a lack of integration with the crew. But one more, now 3, missing crew members would considerabely increase our watch effort. And, afterall, despite differences, we were a crew. And in my point of view we should stick together. I felt sorry.

After giving us this news, the Captain left for a tour on the Island with Laura, to arrange her departure. We were all quite surprised when he returned - with Laura. They had talked things over... and suddenly both had changed their minds. I found that strange. But there was nothing I could do about it anyway.

So we left Easter Island with mixed feelings once again. The crew was devided, and we had a long sail before us, through difficult conditions. During diving in Anakena I had once again inspected the bottom of the hull. The long necked goose barnackles I had found growing on the bottom already in Galapagos, had multiplied and grown to about 5-8cm. They were slowing us down considerably. We were having a El Ninho season, with a feeble wind pattern throughout the cruise. My alert to the Captain was in vain. Our average speed had been staggering 2,5-3 knots until now! We had a long sail in front of us...

In a gentle breeze we were heading South, towards the roaring forties. I sincerely hoped they would roar.

domingo, 16 de março de 2008

Galapagos

Our stay in Galapagos was great. After 11 days on sea with an unknown captain and crew it was releaving to be alone for a short while, to hike and eat fruit. Stretch legs. We learned about the history and geography of the islands, dived and relaxed.

Upon leaving, we prepared the water bunkering operation. It involved buying water and transporting it in several loads, by dingi, to the boat. The captain managed to make a big mess out of the payment. The crew had to pay for it, and the whole buiness seemed somehow manipulated between the Waterman and the captain. It made the crew suspicious, and we had a first argument between crew and captain. This was not a good start.
Seals are abundant on all islands of Galapagos. They are a great threat to dingis. They love hopping in and sunbathe. Try getting them off...


The Blue Footed Boobies did not enjoy our company.

The big turtles of Galapagos.

Tuna fishing is a business - still. Stock of seacucumber is declining rapidely due to Japanese and Corean fishers. And Peruvian, of course.

Orongo

Holy stage of the birdman ritual.

Easter Island decisions

The last day I decided for something different. I rented a quod, an agile 4 wheel bike. I pretended to explore the Rano Kau volcano and the Orongo, a holy place for the Rapa Nui. Orongo was built in ancient times as setting for the birdman rituals, which involved climbing down the steep and sharp slopes, swim over through shark infested waters to the small island Motu Iti, get a bird-egg, swim back and climb up again. Arrive with an unhurt egg, before your competitors do.

Driving the quod was great fun on the dirt roads and over the pastures. Most of Easter Island is open country, pastures, low bush and reforested higher vegetation. The trip was very much like the one on the video above. Except that quods in Easter Island seem capable of driving much faster.

I took the time to think about the situation on our boat. 2 crewmembers left due to "incompatibility". One more on the Captain's "black list": Laura. The matter had been discussed openly among the crew. Laura had had a dispute with the Captain, and was ready to leave. Katie was shaken but undecided.

As the more experienced sailor, I had a friendly relationship with the Captain. Despite the discipline and authority needed on such a ship's crew, for such a voyage, I didn't like the way of the Captain's attitudes, ways and many decisions. The crew noticed how he himself did not respect some of the "holy" rules of the boat; not smoking, not leaving the cockpit without an engaged harness,... and other minor. He thought we wouldn't notice him smoking, behind the genoa, resting in the pulpit, in the early morning, when he released the last night-watch.

I didn't like the idea of "abandoning ship". I felt I had a resposibility towards myself, to finish what I had started. And I also felt responsibility towards the rest of the crew. Since not much anchoring was possible between Easter island and Chile, I thought we might just as well get there safely. As for the social tension, I was confident to be able to take it.

After all, in the next leg we would take us into the roaring-forties. Which was one of the main reasons for my coming. I wanted to see the long pacific rollers and the soaring majestic albatrosses. Until now we didn't experience any challenges, as what regarded sailing. Minor gales had been battered without much fuss. Sure, I thought I had learned this and that about anchoring. A quick course, with many missing lessons still.

I had come to get a "Yachtmaster Offshore" certification and some serious offshore sailing. I had never dreamed myself into a paradise cruise, and knew that times would be hard. And I also thought there was still something in there for me. I would not be disappointed. Why duck?

So, "apesar dos pesares", "despite the despites", I decided to carry on with the South East Pacific Tour, on Columbia.

sábado, 15 de março de 2008

Ships' Log Book entry - Anakena, Easter Island


Extract from the ships Log Book, as written by the Captain:

Sunday, 23 november 2003

Anakena: achored
10:00 (Coastguard) Captain brings forecast. Front approaching 24 hrs.
DECISION: Stay + see.

12:00 Landed with Peter & Etzke. Chickenwings at Gladis.
18:00 Change over crew arrives: Katie, Laura + Mike
FORECAST: Wind backing N-NE / 10-15kts.

01:50 Wind N / 15 - 20 kts.
Depth: 17m --> 11m --> 8m Stops.

Katie wakes Captain. Engine on. Radar on, reads 80m to rocks. We are inside line of breakers + backing 2 --> 3 m

03:00 1st. spring snaps. Engine on. Emergency spring rigged. Surf breaks non stop now. Hope it will hold until day break. Impossible to lift anchors in these conditions. If anchors unhook, time to estimated impact on rocks, 30 sec.

quinta-feira, 13 de março de 2008

Arrival at Easter Island

After 28 days at sea, and 2161 miles sailed, we arrived Easter Island. Seeing the island coming out of the mist, was a memorable moment. I was happy to be on the last watch, in the first morning hours. We had had nasty weather, with poor visibility. We were already close enough to see the island, but the clouds were hanging low. But as the first light came the clouds rose, and the island appeared through the mist.
We set anchor on a patch of sand in the port of Hanga Roa. Anchoring in Easter Island in tricky and dangerous. As confirmed by the several critical situations that we experienced during our stay. The ground is very deep and allways exposed. Since frontal systems keep comming in regularly, the wind is allways shifting. You can be left exposed to a lee shore in a matter of minutes. The scarce places where you can anchor, your ground will be sand with big coral heads. The rest is rock and very deep. The coral heads are a great danger since, due to the shifting winds the anchor chain gets easily wraped around them, dramatically reducing your scope, and making anchor retrieval often difficult.
The crew separated in two. One half would visit the island while the other half would care for the boat. Thee captain went to shore for formalities taking the crew. I was left on the boat with Mike. The wind piped up and the anchor started dragging. We started the engine and monitored drag on the GPS. But luckily the anchor set again until the captain and crew returned. The spanish couple, Eveli and Miriam, decided they would abandon the crew. The tension between the crew and the captain had made first victims. Since Galapagos there had been lots of twist between the crew and the captain. He was clearly not a good leader. I, and the rest of the crew too, had noticed that he took some strange decisions on Galapagos. And he also lied to us on occasions. But worst was that he had put all crew under great psycological pressure. As "instructor" he would, every day, take one crew member into his back cabin for private lessons in navigation. Often he would use this situation for a psicological "evaluation" , scrutinizing and questioning. Many of the younger crew did not fare well under this treatment. I had a more confident attitude, and took that allright. But the others worried me. Girls left the cabin crying a couple of times. The spanish couple left as no surprise. Laura, the canadian girl, was the next candidate for jump off, I thought. We left Salinas with 9 crew. Now we were 7. The next leg, into the roaring forties would be much harder now.
Chegada na Ilha da Páscua

Dia: 19 novembro de 2003
Distância total: 2161 milhas
Distância percorrida: 2161
Dias no mar: 27
Posição: 26deg.39'S / 109deg.35'W


Tive a sorte de ter a vigília que nos traria a entrada final. A ilha com toda a majestade de seus vulcões apareceu na alvorada. Baixamos o ferro debaixo de chuva, num dia nublado e triste.

Apesar da vontade da tripulação de pisar em terra, tomar uma cerveja gelada e comer um belo prato de carne, ainda teríamos que aguardar algumas horas para tal. Como tripulante mais experiente a iniciado no manejo do motor (...que tinha uma sequência complicada para dar a partida...), o capitão me incumbenciou de cuidar do barco enquanto ele levaria a tripulação para terra e resolvesse a papelada com os oficiais. Então, após resumir os trabalhos de inflar e montar o bote, recepcinar os oficiais a bordo, ficamos somente Mike e eu a bordo.

Eveli e Miriam, o casal espanhol, comunicou pouco antes de sair do barco que abandonaria a viagem e não voltaria ao barco.
Comentário posterior: A decisão não surpreendeu. O grande atrito entre a tripulação e o capitão fazia suas primeiras vítimas. Miriam, na véspera da chegada à ilha tinha tido a genial idéia, durante a sua vigília noturna, de colocar sua lâmpada de cabeça, energizada à pilhas, em torno da bússola! Para ve-la melhor... Por sorte o capitão acordou, subiu e viu a besteira. Miriam não pensou que o campo magnético das pilhas iria descompensar a bússola... Certamente tinhamos agora a bússola principal com um desvio. Poderia até ser pequeno, mas para saber teríamos que fazer uma complicada operação de verificação de desvio de bússola.


De fato, confirmando os perigos da ancoragem na Illha da Páscua, à tarde o vento aumentou e o ferro começou a garrar. Sem pestanejar liguei o motor e ficamos monitorando o progresso da situação no GPS. Mas felizmente o ferro acabou unhando denovo e desilguei o motor. O capitão quando voltou ficou um pouco assutado, mas como viu que a situação ficou sob controle, acabou se acalmando.
A noite fomos todos a terra! para um rápido jantar. Bife com fritas e cerveja - que delícia!

Para a estadia na ilha a tripulação se separou. Metade ficaria na ilha enquanto a outra metade faria uma visita. Depois de 4 dias faríamos a troca. A permanência seria de 8 a 9 dias.

Infelizmente, durante o anchor-watch, a noite, o vento aumentou e o barco começou a dar uns trancos violentos na corrente do ferro. As 05hs colocamos os springs na corrente para aliviar os trancos. Pelo menos agora a tripulação restante parecia mais enturmada. Mas teríamos que rachar as tarefas agora com 7 pessoas em vez de 9. E isto para a perna mais exigente, entrando nos roaring-forties.

sexta-feira, 7 de março de 2008

South East Pacific Tour 2

In Galapagos you have a chance to look into evolution's history face - right into the eye.

After sailing from Salinas, Equador, we sailed for 2 weeks to the islands on the Equator - Galapagos. In a very slow pace, averaging 2,5 to 3 knots...

Before joining the programm I had already extensive coastal sailing experience. I am a certified yachtmaster since 2001 - or so. To qualify to the yachmaster (mestre amador), I took the "Arrais amador" exam, while working in São Paulo. I sail from childhood on. My father was a sailor, and we spent many happy summers, all family, in our 23ft. Aleguá. The Ilha Grande arquipelago, 60 miles from Rio, is my favorite playground. I joined several racing crews during regattas in Rio. I enjoy that. But cruising is my favorite style. Cruising on cruiser-racers, for sparkling sailing, is best.

Which is why I was, at first sight, totally disappointed at our 50ft. steel yacht. It was built like a "german panzer" out of 40mm steel plates, in multichine, with a boxy, open doghouse. Feeling and response on the wheel when steering was =0. So my second feelings towards the yacht of our trip were of disappointment too.

But we got to Galapagos. We landed at San Cristobal, and spent 5 days. We explored the island, visited the famous turtles, dived with seals in cold water. The wild appearance of the volcanic hills, the ocean, the pre-historic looking fauna left deep impressions.

I was happy to experience my first open water crossing - about 500miles, on the Pacific Ocean. May longest crossing to that time was 150 miles to Ilha Bela, in São Paulo State. Landsight and landing was a special moment.

I was worried. Before leaving, in Salinas, I dove to see the boat's bottom. To understand the type of boat I was on now. I was worried to see many long-necked barnicles growing on the bottom.

When we arrived at Galapagos they were about 5cms long, and probabely slowing the boat considerabely down. That was not a good prospect for a 2100mile crossing over completely desert ocean. I mentioned that to the captain. But he said we should not scrape the boat, in order not to daamage the bottom paint.

Fist tensions between the crew and the skipper became visible. I had some worries myself. The crew was completely unexperienced in sailing. That was the preferred type of crew the capitain worked with, he said. As more experienced sailor I became some sort of representing officer, or first watchman.

It was a El Ninho year, and we set sail in a feeble breeze, for a 2100mile crossing south into the Pacific Ocean.

quinta-feira, 6 de março de 2008

South East Pacific Tour

Sailing on a trans-oceanic voyage was my childhood dream. I have always longed to experience a long period of time sailing to remote locations.

In the middle of 2003 the consulting business I was in took a downward trend. Since I didn't want to stay "on the beach", in the office, I agreed on a sabbatical with my bosses.
I thought it was a good time to fullfil a dream. As it was end of september, I had the intention to cross the Atlantic, from the Canary Islands to the Caribean. Classic. But then, while searching crewing possibilities over the internet, I found the possibility to join a SouthEast Pacific Tour. A privately owned, 50ft. steel cutter, would take on 7 people form different nationalities to sail from Equador to Galapagos, Easter Island and back to South America - ending in Valdivia Chile. The french-polish-south african captain would give instruction about oceanic sailing. A Yachtmaster examination would be the end result of it.
I jumped on it. I thought; How would I ever get a chance to sail to Galapagos and Easter Island again? Easy answer. Polinesian culture, the most remote, permanently inhabitet island in the world, challenging anchoring. Galapagos, as a bonus, with its exotic fauna, in the steps of Darwin, the cradle of evolution theory! To sail back we would have to dive south, right into the Roaring Forties. Ok... Caribean can wait. Despite some concerns, I just jumped on it, and took my chances.
I took a plane to Lima. 2 days later, I flew to Guayaquil, in Equador. After a night and short visit, I took a bus to Salinas at the coast, where I joined the rest of the crew. A spanish couple, 2 canadians, 2 americans,1 dutch and 1 brazilian - me.
Click on the image to get a closer view. Californian friends might note, that I've tried to bring you into the picture. But I didn't get past Baja California.
A tour like this gives you a different perspective on the world.

quarta-feira, 5 de março de 2008

Sailing Easter Island

Easter Island was a phantastic experience. After sailing from Equador to Galapagos, we sailed 4 weeks south to Easter Island. Try to imagine landing on a beach like the one you see on the lower picture, Anakena. It's where I landed for a 4 day stay on land, while the boat crew tended the 50ft. steel boat. 4 years have passed since then. A curious trip with a wicked ending.
Moai statue on easter Islands volcanic solpes.
Anakena Beach with the first of moais, which were reerrected by Thor Haeyerdahl's expedition. Thor Heyerdahl (1914, Norway) was a Norwegian ethnographer and adventurer with a scientific background in zoology and geography. Heyerdahl became famous for his Kon-Tiki expedition, in which he sailed 4,300 miles (7,000 km) by raft from South America to the Tuamotu Islands. He bacame quite polemic with his theories.