The last day I decided for something different. I rented a quod, an agile 4 wheel bike. I pretended to explore the Rano Kau volcano and the Orongo, a holy place for the Rapa Nui. Orongo was built in ancient times as setting for the birdman rituals, which involved climbing down the steep and sharp slopes, swim over through shark infested waters to the small island Motu Iti, get a bird-egg, swim back and climb up again. Arrive with an unhurt egg, before your competitors do.
Driving the quod was great fun on the dirt roads and over the pastures. Most of Easter Island is open country, pastures, low bush and reforested higher vegetation. The trip was very much like the one on the video above. Except that quods in Easter Island seem capable of driving much faster.
I took the time to think about the situation on our boat. 2 crewmembers left due to "incompatibility". One more on the Captain's "black list": Laura. The matter had been discussed openly among the crew. Laura had had a dispute with the Captain, and was ready to leave. Katie was shaken but undecided.
As the more experienced sailor, I had a friendly relationship with the Captain. Despite the discipline and authority needed on such a ship's crew, for such a voyage, I didn't like the way of the Captain's attitudes, ways and many decisions. The crew noticed how he himself did not respect some of the "holy" rules of the boat; not smoking, not leaving the cockpit without an engaged harness,... and other minor. He thought we wouldn't notice him smoking, behind the genoa, resting in the pulpit, in the early morning, when he released the last night-watch.
I didn't like the idea of "abandoning ship". I felt I had a resposibility towards myself, to finish what I had started. And I also felt responsibility towards the rest of the crew. Since not much anchoring was possible between Easter island and Chile, I thought we might just as well get there safely. As for the social tension, I was confident to be able to take it.
After all, in the next leg we would take us into the roaring-forties. Which was one of the main reasons for my coming. I wanted to see the long pacific rollers and the soaring majestic albatrosses. Until now we didn't experience any challenges, as what regarded sailing. Minor gales had been battered without much fuss. Sure, I thought I had learned this and that about anchoring. A quick course, with many missing lessons still.
I had come to get a "Yachtmaster Offshore" certification and some serious offshore sailing. I had never dreamed myself into a paradise cruise, and knew that times would be hard. And I also thought there was still something in there for me. I would not be disappointed. Why duck?
So, "apesar dos pesares", "despite the despites", I decided to carry on with the South East Pacific Tour, on Columbia.
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