It is incredible.We, who live in Rio de Janeiro, are immensly priviledged. We have paradise right in our backgarden! The Ilha Grande region is, in my humble opinion, from all places I've seen, the most beautifull, gentile and exhuberant. The nicest smelling, rockin-and-rolling, nicest place to be of all times. I fall in love every time. Again and again.
My uncles who live abroad have been visiting us here in Rio. Wise and clever as they are, they rented a boat, to sail for a couple of days in the big, bay of Ilha Grande, with its mirriad of surrounding smaller islands. In a quick tack, I accepted their invitation and jumped on the boat for 2 days, including the 60 mile trip back to Rio.
I couldn't have done better. It was a joy to be with my uncles. Listen to some of the old stories. It is so long ago that we spent such quality time together. And the sailing was a dream...
We had the pleasure to sail "Orion", a 1975 two tonner, which has been adapted to cruising with a practical and cosy, well used interior. Kiko Pelicano, a truly nice guy, who sailed on Brasil 1 during the last Volvo Ocean race, the boat owner, skippered us. It was a pleasure see him doing his quiet work. With a new set of sails Orion was a pleasure to sail, simple but still and agile racing boat. The racing-green, round topsides, in the sensuous curves of the 70ites make it into an eyecatcher. Its wooden cabinhouse was added later, and gives her an agreeable, classic look. An interesting crossover. As a matter of fact, the boat has an impressive history of sucess in long distance regattas in South America.I jumped on the boat in the small coastal town of Angra dos Reis. We left after lunch from the Club, and made it in daylight to the Ilha Grande. There we found an abandoned and quiet anchorage in Abraãozinho, from where we had a majestic view over the peaks of Ilha Grande in a dramatic tropical sky. Enjoy that with a caipirinha, and you know how it feels.
Next day, today, we got up at 04:00am to move towards Rio. We left in total calm, under engine, into a still starry night. We had the Orion constellation above and the 40ft. Orion under us. But as soon as the colours touched the sky, at 05:20am, and the sun rose, in fierly colours, announcing a hot day, we enjoyed a refreshing sail on a tight reach. It is simple navigation on heading of 110, towards the Guanabara Bay, along the Restinga da Marambaia. It is prime though, to avoid the Lage da Marambaia Rock, the preferred obstacle to navigation on the way. It has ruined many a sailors fine days and nights.
I actually like it the rock. It brings a little challenge into the navigation of a stetch of 24 miles, all along a long, straight, and low lying beach. Occasionally you get to see the odd school of dolphins, or maybe a whale. Not much challenge, just keep your eyes open.
Along the way we enjoyed a splash in cristal clear water of 29 degrees Celsius. Right over the continental shelf, in the South Atlantinc Ocean. After 10 hours of sailing and motoring we arrived tired but refreshed in Rio.
The dependance of the ICRJ, in Angra dos Reis. An as simple and charming support structure.
Click on the images for a high resolution reality check.
What better incentive than that, to go build yourself a boat?

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